Guide To Starting Seeds Indoors-The Instructions

Once you have everything you need to get started, this is what I like to do. First, I recommend doing some research on what you will be planting. Some seeds need light, some don’t. Some may require scarification as discussed in the introduction. The information you find can then be added to your garden journal so you’ll have a quick reference later.

I like to start by pre-moistening the seed starting mix. I’ve seen a lot of people pour the mix in dry and then water it in really well but, for me, I like being able to see that the soil is evenly moist throughout. To do this, I pour some of my soil into a bucket or tub and then add warm water and mix it until the moisture is evenly distributed and the soil is still light. I fluff the soil lightly with my hands before filling the seed cells.

Once your soil is moist and light, set up the containers you’ll be planting in. I like to use the baskets from the greenhouse, a watering tray, and the seed cells. Using the baskets gives me a little more versatility for watering. Once the soil in a particular pack looks moist, I can move it to “higher ground” until the others get their fill. It also allows me to keep a warm, moist environment for the seeds without them being IN the water. This helps deter seed rot and fungal diseases like damping off that occur when the soil is too wet.

Get anything you can to scoop dirt. We’re going to spread the soil out over top of the entire flat. I like to fill them almost to the top, leaving a space that is equal to the planting depth for each seed you’re planting. The planting depth can be found on the back of the seed packet. If your packet doesn’t have the planting depth, a good rule of thumb is to not plant any seed any deeper than it’s length. It’s best to err on the side of caution and plant more shallow. All the seeds I am planting today have a 1/4″ planting depth, so I fill with soil 1/4″ from the top. Take care to not smash the soil down into each cell. You want the soil to be loose. I lightly spread it out with my fingers just to make sure that there aren’t any huge gaps in the soil and that it’s even across the top.

To plant the seeds, I like use a little dish. I pour some seeds into the dish and then use my fingers to place the seeds in the soil. They make gadgets for this but I find that using my fingers gives me more control on the placement of the seeds and it goes fairly quickly this way. My fingers also work for free. I generally put two seeds per cell. I then fill the cells or containers all the way to the top. Then, lightly tamp down soil to ensure the seed has good contact with the soil and to bless the little babies as they begin their journey.

Add labels. What you put on the labels is entirely up to you. I usually keep mine pretty basic. I include what it is and the date it was planted. I have a garden journal where I keep more in depth information.

Once the seeds are planted, I add them to a watering tray with a bit of warm water on the bottom. I mist the top of the soil with warm water and also the inside of the dome. Place the dome over the top. If it doesn’t fit as well as it should, you can add plastic wrap to seal it up better.

Place your flat of planted seeds on a warm surface. The ideal soil temperature is 70-80 degrees F. Once planted, be sure to check on them daily. Checking daily for moisture, warmth, and sprouts can not be over emphasized.

Most seeds don’t need light to germinate (some do so research is required) but, it’s a good idea to go ahead and get your lights set up so they’re ready when the seedlings emerge. Sometimes, it happens much faster than you think it will and if there is too much of a delay between sprouting and light your seedlings may stretch too quickly and become weak and leggy. Plants are phototropic. They grow according to the light. If lights are too far, stems stretch. If stems begin to curve, their placement may need adjusted. How far away you hang your lights depends on what lights you are using. Refer to manufacturer’s directions or do a quick internet search to determine where your lights should be.

Once your seeds sprout they will need to be removed from the heat and placed under lights immediately. I start them out 12 hours on and 12 hours off and then gradually increase the amount of time the light is on to 14 hours. As your plants grow, you will need to adjust the lights so they’re always at the right distance away. You will also want to add a fan into the mix at this point. This gives the plants good air circulation and strengthens stems. Water as needed by adding water to the tray.

Seedlings won’t need to be fed until after the cotyledons have dried up, usually after the first or second set of true leaves emerge. At that point, a dilution of water soluble fertilizer (1/4 to 1/2) or one made specifically for seedlings may be used according to package directions. I feed from underneath, just like I water, but, I also like to give any leggy plants a bit of a spritz with the diluted fertilizer. It helps to beef them up a bit.

Some seedlings may need to be potted up if they outgrow their growing container. I use a mix of seed starting soil and organic potting soil to do this. I fill the larger containers with soil and then make a whole in the center for the seedling to be placed into, pressing lightly on the top to ensure stability.

About two weeks before your planting date, the seedlings will need to be hardened off. This is a way to gradually acclimate them to being outdoors in an environment that is not controlled. Start by taking the seedlings outside in an area that has some shelter from the elements, like a porch. Let them hang out for an hour or so and gradually increase their outside time and direct sun time throughout the this period until eventually leaving them out overnight, once temps are consistent. At this point, they are ready to be transplanted into the garden or containers.

There are so many variables involved in this process. It won’t all be successful, but you have to let that be okay. Often, it’s our failures that have the most to teach us. By learning as much as you can from the start you will be better equipped to give proper care to your seedlings when they emerge ensuring that they are healthy and happy all the way through to harvest. Best of Luck!